Despite the sophisticated setting, the cuisine here is surprisingly approachable, from platters of house charcuterie served with fire-warmed artisan bread to the superb lobster bisque with braised new potatoes and fennel available in both the cozy front lounge and more formal dining area. It’s there that the kitchen shines its brightest though, with such elaborate entrées as ricotta gnudi neatly arranged with chanterelles à la Grecque, tender squash and golden raisins. The popular key lime tart is an equally impressive display—its crisp and perfect shell topped with toasted marshmallows, viola petals and meringue batons. Given the clientele, the wine list is designed to court deep pockets with an outstanding selection of French vintages, particularly Bordeaux.