The chef opened Ubuka because he liked the idea of a restaurant that specialises in shellfish. The name means ‘first fragrance’, in recognition of the importance of the aroma of foodstuffs. The menu is all about shrimp and crab. Cooking the shellfish alive, Kato displays the prowess he honed at traditional Japanese restaurants in Kyoto. Crab meat has been picked, so is easy for diners to enjoy. The secret ingredient in his famous fried shrimp is his soy-sauce-infused sauce américaine.