Shinji Ishida uses ‘Shin’ to express a desire to find the ‘new’ while respecting ‘core’ Japanese culinary traditions, both of which are ‘shin’ in Japanese. Shinjo made by combining sweet potato paste and crab meat bursts with individuality. Duck breast is char-grilled; thigh and liver are stuffed into steamed lily bulb dumplings. Sommelier Yasuhide Tobita’s pairings bring a ‘new’ (shin) way of thinking. In their renovated restaurant, the two partners’ spirits (also “shin”) paint the future of kappo.