Owner-chef Shinji Kanesaka is devoted to sushi. He charms his customers as he trains his small army of apprentices. Through the sushi he shapes, Kanesaka conveys his thoughts and understanding of the sea, the fish market, and the work of the artisan. The key to great sushi, he says, is the three-way interplay between topping, vinegared rice, and wasabi. Fixing a keen eye on the condition of the seafood, Kanesaka deftly executes his techniques, harmonising the vinegared rice with each topping.