Propelled by the enthusiasm of a dynamic and welcoming team, chef David Sterne deals in French classics and he does so with aplomb: snail tartlet and slow-cooked egg, bear's garlic emulsion; roast duck fillet and sweet and sour orange sauce; caramelised peach tarte tatin and home-made lemon-yoghurt ice cream. It's hearty stuff, to be savoured in a nicely refurbished space.
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