Joseph Viola, Best Craftsman of France, reigns over this dyed-in-the-wool, patina-aged bolthole, oozing in authenticity. Patriotic line-up of Gallic recipes, high-flying technique (calf’s head, quenelle of pike) founded on superlative ingredients with an eye on the seasons. His signature dish is a “porkpie” of sweetbread and foie gras – to die for!