Tom Brown is an alumnus of Nathan Outlaw and it shows in his skilful cooking, which is dictated by the daily catch. Assured, understated dishes are packed with bold, clearly defined flavours and plenty of originality, and there’s often more to combinations than first meets the eye. Raw dishes compete with those that are cooked; ensure you start with some snacks – such as the chalk stream trout pastrami – before moving on to plates which burst with complementary flavours. The room has a pared-down, faux-industrial style and the open kitchen creates a lively, buzzy vibe.