A picturesque little island with an aristocratic charm, Symi lies between two Turkish peninsulas, each just a few kilometres away. Arriving from Rhodes or Kos, the contrast is striking: no long, straight expanses of beach, but sheer cliffs and jagged creeks. Symi is a walkers' paradise: between sea and mountains, the coastal paths lead to a few deserted creeks and the paths along the crests are dotted with forgotten chapels.