Bukchon, on the doorstep of Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung, is home to a host of early 20C traditional buildings, hanok, erected on the site of the former aristocratic district of the Joseon Dynasty. This charming neighbourhood, whose streets are lined with shops, restaurants and art galleries, is well worth a trip. Sadly, since 2001 Bukchon is the object of a renovation project that risks transforming it into a second Insadong (crammed with purely tourist cafés and shops).