A mecca for Cuban music, Calle Heredia is one of the liveliest streets in the city. On Saturdays, it is virtually impossible to make move around here; come dusk, young Santiagueros converge here in crowds around the Casa de la Trova, a modest-looking building which has long echoed to Cuban rhythms and where live music is played in the patio courtyard and the concert hall, the latter covered by photos of famous musicians.