Reykjavik's old town extends between the sea and Lake Tjörnin, at the point where the island's first settlers made their home. The quadrangular Austurvöllur Square, known as the "Eastern Field", stands on the site of the enclosure set up by Ingólfur Arnarson, the very first of these settlers. Now home to cafés, shops and offices, the square is lined by attractive, brightly painted buildings. Concrete, rock, corrugated iron, wood, statues and birds - surprises await at every street corner.