In the heart of the Zhoushan archipelago, the tiny island of Putuoshan, one of the four sacred mountains of Buddhism, bewitches pilgrims as much as it charms mere travellers: in the shade of its thousands of charms and camphor trees, the old ochre temples honour Buddha and Guanyin in a fervour, with the scents of incense punctuated by heady songs. This paradisiacal land surrounded by large sandy beaches invites to spiritual meditation and contemplation of nature.