This is Cape Verde at its most lush. The hike from the village of Paúl to the Caldeira de Cova alternates between flat roads and much steeper paths along the ribeira. The route crosses many colourful hamlets, before zigzagging across the landscape, through various crops (from coffee to tomatoes and peas) and offering some stunning panoramic views. Shortly before the Cova crater, conifers appear, heralding a new landscape of mountain pastures.