Set in the buzzing Navy Yard, this brainchild of Chef Reid Shilling may be spotted from afar thanks to its distinct sign and inviting garden boxes that burst with all manner of herbs and greens. Inside, it is all modern and masculine, with a commanding bar, gleaming copper kitchen and navy-blue banquette seating.The cooking is mid-Atlantic with contemporary flair, but seasonality rules the roost in both food and drinks. Choose from à la carte or go all in on the tasting menu to savor the likes of pan- fried soft-shell crab over early summer gazpacho and succotash of black-eyed peas, Fresno pepper, and zucchini, followed by a hearty wood-grilled pork chop over cheddar, horseradish, and collard green bread pudding. For dessert, butterscotch pudding with a benne seed tuile is a win.