In lovely natural surroundings (lizarraga means "ash forest" in Basque), Véronique and Stéphane Poulin's restaurant is set in a 17C inn with its character very much intact – it is both chic and pastoral, thanks to the works of art by a Basque artist hanging on the walls. The chef offers up a new and skilful version of market-based cuisine that is rife with bold, distinctive flavours. Some of his daring combinations are on point, such as white asparagus from the Landes, wild garlic coulis, calamansi gel, Ossau-Iraty cheese and mustard ice cream; pigeon with a rich anchovy jus; and for dessert, poached carrots with saffron and orange-clementine sorbet. The presentation is sleek and meticulous, and everything is cooked to perfection. Opt for the terrace in the shade of a century-old walnut tree and enjoy the efficient service of the lady of the house. Sound wine recommendations. A real gem!