In Japanese cooking we speak of kakushiaji, subtle seasoning that brings out the flavour. At Kagurazaka Ishikawa, the charm is in the parts that are hidden. For example, the Daitokuji natto accompanying the steamed black rockfish is served in a kombu-and-shellfish dashi with reduced salt for an elegant taste. Slices of finest awabi and shabu-shabu somen of wagyu impart a sense of delicacy. Cooking makes the man, and the fare here attests to the character of owner-chef Hideki Ishikawa.