This contemporary bistro is near the Arsenal, a neighbourhood in the throes of renovation. The couple at the helm includes a chef with a wealth of Michelin-star experience and Laura, a former nurse who has retrained as a maître d' and sommelier. Succulent cuisine in the zeitgeist: beef tartare, smoked potatoes, trout roe and beurre noisette; confit hake, fregola sarda, burnt leeks and cashew notes... The chef takes a savvy approach to cooking, especially when it comes to the bargain-priced lunchtime menu (which changes weekly). The wine list stars wines from independent winegrowers. Bookings essential.