Behind the characteristic stone façade of the Wave Distillery, this bistro more than embodies its name (gourmand)! Matthieu Chalmagne adds a new spin to pedigree Gallic classics in a high-flying bistronomic vein and imbues a certain delicacy to his dishes, without losing sight of their hunger-satisfying goal. His personal take on a family favourite, veal stew, is a case in point: fluffy rice with carrots and celery, on top of which are placed two slices of Melba toast which are, in turn, smothered in melt-in-the-mouth, fork-tender veal stew, while a dollop of Madras curry-spiked creamy gravy adds the final flourish. While the chef freely admits to adding playful touches to his work, he nonetheless ensures that the à la carte lineup remains on a reassuringly classical keel.