This branch of the brand founded in Sichuan in 1923 opened its doors in 2018. Now run by the fourth generation, it serves more refined dishes than a century ago, although the authentic 24 taste profiles of Sichuanese cuisine remain the backbone. The duck blood curd with sliced eel and beef tripe gives off bold heat. Steamed grass carp in spicy broad bean sauce exudes rich aromas and complex piquancy; ginger and chilli pickles cut through the heat.