The contrasts come thick and fast in this eatery, starting with the interior, whose contemporary elements provide the perfect foil to elegant period details. "Contraste" is also the name of a famous champagne vintage by Anselme Selosse – which can be found, among others, on the extensive wine list. You can expect to sample meticulous, up-to-date, flavoursome cuisine crafted from top-drawer seasonal produce and rolled out in an à la carte lineup or a tasting menu. In keeping with the overall theme, the chef’s score is a vibrant tapestry of contrasts and boldly mixes acidic, bitter, sweet and even umami flavours.