‘Arabompu’ was a favourite word of Edo-era haiku poet Kobayashi Issa. It means ‘living a free and ordinary life’. For the chef here, it means approaching his subjects, buckwheat and soba, from a natural stance. To watch his series of tasks—parboiling, washing, then plating the soba noodles—there’s no substitute for a seat at the counter. The ‘Soba Zanmai’ set offers three types of soba—nihachi, juwari, and arabiki—served as half bowls of each for tasting. Kanto-style dipping sauce recalls the days of the chef’s apprenticeship.