Jeroen Borglevens loves embarking his diners on a journey, particularly to Asia. His finetuned score is not averse to surprising us, but never to excess. For example, he may craft seabass as a ceviche with grapefruit, jalapeno and wasabi ice cream or pair cod aged in kombu with a yusukosho-spiked beurre blanc. Be prepared for an experience that unveils a host of unexpected treats and endless sensations. The beverage list, rich in cocktails, sakes and wine, is equally captivating. Should you fancy a close-up view of the culinary show, book a seat at the counter, which is as elegant as the zen-inspired interior is intimate.