Step inside Shun from the Oosterhaven quayside and experience its serene atmosphere. The open kitchen immediately catches the eye, natural light lends warmth to the room, and the terrace to the side is equally inviting. Bas Varga and his team punctuate that calm with vibrant French-Japanese cooking. They make a point of using ingredients in their prime and show a sure hand with precise cooking and spicy, sweet-and-sour and umami notes. One example is tender-crisp white asparagus accompanied by a rich beurre blanc made from asparagus, smoked almonds for texture, egg yolk cured in soy sauce and rice vinegar, and the punch of a magnolia, asparagus and umeboshi vinaigrette. The chef likes to work with different textures and uses delicate nuances of flavour to give his dishes a personal touch – to pleasing effect.