Named after India’s spiritual capital, Benares marries tradition with daring modernity. You’re greeted at the foot of the stairs, then escorted up past a flower-filled pool and busy bar into the cleverly textured restaurant. The private dining rooms and large lounge make it popular with businesspeople, but this is also somewhere for an intimate evening. Sameer Taneja’s signature dishes include oyster vindaloo and chicken with winter truffle – prime examples of cooking that shows confidence, freshness and vitality, with the exemplary quality of the ingredients shining through.