The eponymous chef has been given a discreet, intimate environment at the Hotel Café Royal in which to showcase his impressive and accomplished cuisine. His dishes are exquisite in appearance and, like a seasoned orchestra, everything on the plate adds its own note of flavour to produce something harmonious and exhilarating. Whether Cornish sardines, Yorkshire rhubarb or Herdwick lamb, the kitchen knows how to bring out the best in its ingredients. The smart team offer service that is formal but free from stuffiness.