This brasserie de-luxe occupies a Grade-II-listed former banking hall within the Sofitel hotel and, while that means a certain grandeur, the atmosphere is never overly formal. Anthony Demetre’s cooking proves the perfect fit because it is equally impressive but defined by a refreshing lack of showmanship. His appealing dishes are as generous in size as they are rewarding in flavour, from duck, pork and guinea fowl terrine en croûte to Loire Valley rabbit. The delicious custard tart is a true speciality and if it was ever removed from the menu there would be protests on Pall Mall.