Under its motto of ‘buckwheat and cooking’, Itsutsu’s focus on seasonal cuisine is the Wakuden way. Soba is made into thin noodles, using only the smallest amount of filler and well water from Daitoku-ji Temple. The chef doesn’t brace the noodles with cold water, so the flavour jumps to the fore. Similarly, soba dipping sauce is mild, based on its salt flavour. ‘Itsutsu-setto’, an assortment of appetisers, is recommended. Reservations are required for the prix fixe Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, which includes soba.