The chef has gained experience in many parts of Italy, but Sicily remains closest to his heart. Pasta made with dried tuna roe, and ‘matalotta’, a stew of whitefish and vegetables, are traditional flavours. To grow a clientele that drops in casually, ortensia is decorated in a burnt-orange tone, recalling the blood oranges of the Mezzogiorno. Familiar items such as clam sauce pasta and spaghetti peperoncino grace the menu as well.