This nostalgic, dimly lit throwback hits all the right notes. Wrapped in dark wood, roomy booths and red-and-white checkered tablecloth, this Italian-American restaurant delivers a tightly crafted menu that covers the classics with style and heart. Where to begin? Clams casino, a towering Caesar salad or a righteous, fork-tender meatball? Pastas like spicy rigatoni alla vodka or linguine vongole are made-in house. Rich and bold flavors extend to entrees like chicken Parmesan or veal marsala. The food is far from light and diners should bring friends with appetites at the ready. Reservations can be scarce; walk-ins may have better luck at the bar.