On the outskirts of Puebla in the town of Cholula, this restaurant looks to chart its own path in a region rich with traditional recipes. The setting is the first surprise: a sleek warehouse with moody lighting, exposed brick, flickering candles and metal beams. Chef Eduardo Luna’s contemporary Mexican tasting menu matches the lofty space, and he makes a striking impression with smart ideas and refined presentations. Think beef tartare with serrano on brioche, puffy tortilla with mushrooms and mole poblano or a particularly satisfying strawberry salad with vanilla cream and lemon ice cream. Sharp servers keep close watch, while a bartender in the back shakes up refreshing cocktails.