Having left Duende in Nîmes, Julien Caligo has returned to his native Vaunage, setting up shop in a converted farm building that has been transformed into a contemporary dining space. The venue pays homage to his grandmother Monique, who passed down the fundamentals of cooking to him. Offering excellent value for money, the lunch tasting menu is a masterclass in technical skill. To start, focaccia with sweet Cévennes onions and a tartlet with smoked pike roe, followed by bonito, quinoa crunch and green asparagus – a starter with real bite – then hake, pressed pig's ear terrine, a bold and fragrant combination of sorrel and green curry. White porcelain, pale wood, Mediterranean ingredients and the chef's talent are perfectly in tune with 21C cuisine.