Chef Nick Curtola cooks with restraint and confidence at this regional Italian spot just across the street from sibling The Four Horsemen. The menu is rooted in tradition, handled cleanly and without excess. Grilled tripe plated with vibrant salmoriglio, house-made mayonnaise and crispy fried potatoes is a striking dish that signals the kitchen’s comfort with depth and simplicity. Handmade pastas and rustic mains follow. Desserts are essential here: the tiramisu is feather-light, generously portioned and among the most satisfying in the city. Reservations may be hard to come by but arrive early for a seat at the bar and a lovely way to experience the room and the cooking up close.