Right from the word go, Didier Doreau pulled out all the stops to make this likable country restaurant a bona fide foodie bolthole. You can expect proper Gallic overtones, courtesy of crisp, fresh produce and dishes that exalt and respect the intrinsic flavour of each ingredient. A few examples: lobster and langoustine bisque; tournedos of monkfish, green peas with lettuce and onions and beurre blanc; financier cake with apricot and pistachio and apricot- and rosemary-laced sorbet. The chef is renowned for his way with game in season (hare, venison, wild boar, etc.), further explaining the well-deserved success of this regional culinary landmark.