South of Saint-Laud train station, in the La Fayette-Éblé neighbourhood, Valentin Raguin has set up shop in a modern building: the aesthetic is minimalist, with exposed concrete, an abundance of natural light and an open kitchen. The blackboard menu changes with the market, expanding in the evening to include characterful dishes: calf's head, mussel escabèche and Cajun emulsion; duck fillet, confit aubergine, gremolata and anchovy; riz au lait, caramel and sablé. A laid-back atmosphere and an ambitious wine list.